Cyril Fhal’s Clos du Rouge Gorge originates from the village of Latour-de-France, where the schist and gneiss terroirs rank among the finest in Roussillon. In 2002, after gaining experience with Mark Angéli and Charlie Foucault in the Loire and serving as chef de cave at Mas Crémat, Cyril acquired 5 hectares of old vineyards, later expanding to 7.5 hectares. From the start, he chose to work outside the Roussillon-Villages appellation, rejecting regulations that require a minimum 30% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre, which he believes conflict with the region’s heritage, terroir, and climate. Instead, he remains committed to crafting wines that honor the true identity of Roussillon.

Since taking over the estate, Cyril Fhal has pursued a natural balance in the vineyard, aiming to create wines of finesse and complexity. To minimize soil compaction, he forgoes tractors, instead relying on a motorized hand-held cultivator and a horse for ploughing. Between the vine rows, he plants leguminous cover crops, rolling them back in summer to retain moisture, a crucial practice in Latour-de-France, home to the driest non-irrigated vineyard in the world, with just 250mm of annual rainfall. His approach to viticulture is rooted in close observation, adjusting practices according to the unique needs of each vine and its environment.

With tiny yields of just 10-20 hl/ha, the fruit is treated with the utmost care in the new cellar he converted four years ago. Extractions are gentle, more akin to infusion, and the wines undergo élevage in 500-600L demi-muids and foudres, with no fining or filtration. Sulfur use is kept to an absolute minimum, with total levels between 10-15mg/L. The range includes two remarkable whites: the main cuvée, a blend of Macabeu and Carignan Blanc, and a limited Grenache Gris bottling from the exceptional terroir of L’Ubac. The reds showcase Grenache Jeunes Vignes, highlighting the variety’s elegance and finesse, alongside an old-vine cuvée of Carignan from gnarled, ancient vines. The L’Ubac red blends Carignan, Grenache, and Cinsault, while an exciting new cuvée, Col du Loup, has just been bottled from a terroir Cyril prepared and planted with Grenache Noir in 2014.